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Bamiyan, AFGHANISTAN – Call him forward thinking, but Sanjeev Gupta thinks it’s about time war-torn Afghanistan had a tourism industry.

Gupta, a regional program manager for a non-governmental organization called the Aga Khan Foundation, says that while some parts of Afghanistan remain too volatile to visit, Bamiyan, the province in which he works, is blessed with relative peace – and an abundance of cultural, historical and natural treasures capable of luring travelers from all around the world.

“Bamiyan has a lot of tourist potential,” Gupta said. “We need to correct the perception of Afghanistan. The whole country is not dangerous.”

To promote the industry, the Aga Khan Foundation has created the Bamiyan Ecotourism Project – a three-year program that will develop a tourism infrastructure, train guides, cooks and hoteliers, and raise awareness of the region’s attractions.

Nevertheless, the task of establishing a tourism industry in Afghanistan, even in a relatively safe province like this one, is formidable. Most western governments’ advisories strongly discourage non-essential travel to the country. Of the two roads that link the city to Kabul, one travels through territory controlled by the Taliban and the other experienced two roadside bombings in the past month. The journey takes 10 hours, over a dirt road that resembles the surface of an asteroid. There are no commercial flights to the province.

But Gupta is thinking long-term with the Bamiyan Ecotourism Project. So long-term that he imagines a future Bamiyan with an international airstrip. “It’s not that we’re starting the program today and tomorrow there are hordes of tourists coming,” he said. “But it builds a base.”

To be sure, tourism here is not without precedent. Bamiyan has been on travel itineraries since it was a major caravanserai of the Silk Road and once hosted famous wanderers like Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan. More recently, Laura Bush paid a visit in June. Bamiyan’s towering statues of the Buddha, carved into a sandstone cliff 1,500 years ago – a century before the birth of Islam – attracted foreign tourists up until the Soviet invasion in 1979. Few have traveled here in the last 30 years of war, and in 2001 the Taliban destroyed the Buddhist landmarks with rockets and tanks.

Now, as this province emerges as one of the success stories of post-Taliban Afghanistan, the people want their history back. Habiba Sarabi, the governor of Bamiyan and the only female governor in Afghanistan, says she is tired of seeing her province lumped in with the negative news from the rest of the country.

“If there is news about security in Afghanistan, then it affects Bamiyan,” Sarabi said. The governor hopes that as people become aware of the region’s safety, tourism will become a lucrative industry for her province. “It can bring a lot of income and a lot of change to people’s lives,” she said. The governor is still cautious, however. “We want to avoid mass tourism in Bamiyan,” she said. “Everything should be taken care of.”

Sarabi says she wants at least one of the Buddha statues to be rebuilt, a difficult project which several organizations have offered to fund, but is still awaiting approval from the Ministry of Culture in Kabul. “Unfortunately, they haven’t made a decision,” Sarabi said.

But according to Abdul Razak, sitting in the empty restaurant of his 18-room Roof of Bamiyan Hotel, tourism has a long way to come here. “The most important thing for tourists is peace,” he said. “If (the Bamiyan Ecotourism Project) can bring peace, then the tourists will come. If not, everything is for nothing.”

Razak said that the presence of UN and large-budget NGO offices have inflated the cost of rent in Bamiyan. As a result, he has to charge $40 - $60 per night for one of his rooms – fine for the vacationing expatriates from Kabul, but a higher price than he would use to target genuine travelers, often on smaller budgets.

“This is not a tourist price,” he said. “This is a crazy price. If more guests come, I will put the price down to $10.”

Down the hill from the Roof of Bamiyan is the Silk Road Hotel, which charges $80 - $100 for a room, but boasts Bamiyan’s first and only sushi bar.

Afghanistan’s recent instability has taken its toll on the nascent tourism industry here. The recent bombing outside the Indian embassy in Kabul and the January attack on the capital’s only five-star hotel have hurt business, says André Mann, founder of the Great Game Travel Company, which offers customized adventure travel expeditions around Afghanistan.

“Things turned to the worse, which we didn’t expect,” he said.

Mann said his company’s clientele are well-traveled, well-to-do Europeans and Americans intent on visiting Afghanistan. “We try to make it safer for them,” he said. While his business has suffered in 2008, in 2007 he organized trips for 200 travelers, and he hopes 2009 will be even better. “Afghanistan is absolutely unique,” he said. “It’s waiting to be discovered. It just needs some infrastructure.”

The decision to travel to Afghanistan was a rewarding one for Pei-Yin Lew, a 22-year old Australian medical student enjoying a trip to Bamiyan’s spring-fed Band-i-Amir lakes one recent Sunday.

“One of the main reasons I wanted to come to Afghanistan was to see these lakes,” she said, standing above a string of six brilliant blue lagoons set in the middle of barren sandstone badlands. “It’s truly beautiful here.”

When Lew arrived at the Afghan border after traveling for a month in neighboring Iran, she had a copy of the brand new Lonely Planet for Afghanistan and a profile on CouchSurfing.com, an online network of people around the world willing to host travelers in their towns. Travel websites, family and friends had urged her not to go to Afghanistan, but she’s glad she did.

“As a girl, traveling alone, you don’t know how people are going to react to that,” Lew said. “But it’s all about perception. Some will say it’s safe, some will say it’s not, but no one really knows.”

84 comments:

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hi jacob. bret and i have really enjoyed reading your articles. i wanted to comment on them but it has been hard. now we have internet but kids punching keys along with us. one of these nights after bedtime we will sit down and write. however, i wanted to get this info to you sooner. your pictures are absolutely amazing and i ran across a photography contest in national geographic traveler that i thought you may find interesting. in case you have not heard about it i'll give you the info. it is called world in focus, there are 5 categories, with both amateur and professional divisions. entry forms and information are @ worldinfocuscontest.com
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Hi Jacob,
How are you and where are you these days? I've just mentioned your blog on mine, in a post on sites I admire. Keep up the great and interesting work.
Jerry and I head back to Asia in mid-October, starting in Thailand. Perhaps we'll see you?

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I love your blog and your Flickr photos and hope that you can bring them together someday as a book or a series of articles.

The last word on Burma was also well done.

Please, in future, however, don't go looking for government secrets in a paranoid country run by a brutal junta. Your journalistic credentials offer no special protection, and next time you may wind up like Daniel Pearl. You got lucky in Burma. Or perhaps they determined that no one was watching your back and let you go. Leave spying to the professionals and the diplomatically protected.

I am looking forward to the next entry. Keep up the great site and try not to forget the beauty of the trees for the frightfulness of the forest.

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The general complexities of men's and women's fashion

Both women and men can have the difficulties of keeping their clothing up-to-date and in time, yet men's fashion often seems a lot easier. Of course, for both genders, outfits and fashion choices can be equally as elaborate, and there are many'fashionable'things that can easily become fashion faux pas - who will say they often see people walking on in 70s flames? On the other side, men's style has a few choice goods that can exist eternally - which man is likely to watch out of place with a good-quality, tailored suit, for example? Select traditional pieces, colours and materials and you'll never seem out-of-place.

Why common men's style is timeless

The common man's suit has hardly changed for over a hundred years. True, there are many types for different situations, nevertheless they are all popular in their pursuit of a smart, sharp look for the individual. The neat thing about traditional fashion for men is that it's effortlessly fashionable simply cool. A well-groomed lady can almost always appear his sharpest in a well-tailored suit, and it is a testament to the style of such apparel. A match will undoubtedly be used to work in many occupations because of the professional look it offers to the wearer, instilling a feeling of respect and confidence. Similarly a match will be utilized to many social situations, like a tuxedo to a black-tie affair. This extraordinary versatility which allows matches to be used in almost all events is what gives it its amazing border and a lasting devote men's fashion.

Modern trends in classic men's style

Whilst basic men's designs can never be replaced, it's interesting to remember that shifts in men's fashion trends have brought particular common clothes back in fashion. The acceptance of vintage clothing, specially, has brought back a wide-variety of basic models into men's closets, such as that of the dandy man. 'Dandy'is a term used to reference men who dress in a classic yet expensive way, operating in a polished method and placing importance on appearance. This tendency for almost'over-the-top'common style for men is evident from events including the'Tweed Run', where men and women of all ages dress in especially Victorian-style attire and decide to try the roads on vintage bikes - with many of the men sporting remarkable mustaches! This really is just one of many types of research presenting the resurgence of such designs. There are also numerous sites on line which concentrate on gentlemanly type - such as'The Dandy Project'and'Dandyism'- as well as whole web sites such as'The Art of Manliness'focused on giving articles on classic men's fashion and grooming.

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